Zuppli

Zuppli (Risotto Fritters)

1 cup of risotto should make 6 good sized fritters

Time 15 minutes

Much like most Italian food which is passed down from generation to generation, this recipe was passed down to me. My father upon teaching me how to make risotto (probably when I was about seven years old), couldn’t help but share this little gold nugget of a dish with me. Now, I am sharing it with all of you.

The only thing better than a really good batch of risotto (which ranks as one of the best things in the world...), is zuppli made from that really good batch of risotto. In case you missed it, check out my post last week of mushroom risotto, start with that. However, any day old risotto will do just fine for this recipe (as long as it isn’t seafood)—I particularly like it with the classic saffron risotto.

Warning: This is not healthy, in fact the following recipe is indeed a despicable combination of fats and carbs, each bite of which has the capacity to clog an artery—even so, it is so gosh darn delicious (sorry for the profanity). What could be better than a crispy and crunchy crust, filled with perfectly cooked risotto, and don’t forget the melted cheese inside. It is really good. I however, save this dish for special occasions.

Nearly every region (or even town) in Italy has their own recipe and name for this dish. Little grandmothers stash away the extra risotto from a big dinner, saving it to make this treat for the next day’s lunch—so if you have had variations of this recipe, or know it by another name, don’t fret.

Ingredients

1 cup cooked risotto

1 egg

Block of mozzarella (or other meltable cheese—you can get fancy with this and even use something like a Comte, just make sure the cheese doesn’t over power the risotto)

breadcrumbs

salt and pepper

plenty of olive oil

It is simple really, mix the risotto with the egg and salt and pepper. Form the risotto into little balls and stuff a piece of cheese on the inside.

Coat with breadcrumbs.

Fry in plenty of olive oil at high heat until golden brown on all sides.

Sprinkle generously with parmagiano reggiano, and serve immediately.

Risotto di Funghi

Risotto di Funghi Porcini (Porcini Mushroom Risotto)

Time: About an hour (less if you are a quick chopper)

Serves 4

A world of culinary delights exists in a steamy bite of mushroom risotto. The perfect balance between puffy, yet ever-so-slightly crunchy rice kernels covered in a creamy, aromatic and earthy sauce will excite your taste buds, warm your heart and awaken the deepest depths of your soul

Much like the majority of Italian food, Risotto is misunderstood by amateur foodies as a difficult dish to make. From a technical and complexity standpoint, it is in fact, very easy. First and second timers sometimes have trouble with figuring out when the whole thing is done--read down and you will find how simple it really is.

Porcini mushrooms are amongst the most exquisite things in the world. Fresh, these oversized, meaty, and aromatic funghi are often grilled at high temperatures. Sadly, outside of October in Tuscany (amongst other parts of central and northern Italy) the fresh shroom is not readily available. I have seen it at farmers markets in southern california but it is very expensive. Nevertheless, the dried version so well condenses the aroma and flavor that a mixture of dried porcini with fresh and meaty mushrooms makes the whole mess taste like fresh porcinis. If you are able to find fresh porcini, don’t even dare use them in a risotto, call me, and we can emulate perhaps my favorite traditional Italian meal: A good crusty bread, a big old bowl of grilled porcinis, and enough chianti classico to knock out a horse.

Ingredients:

1 good sized onion diced

4 cloves of garlic peeled and coarsely chopped

1 cup arborio rice

at least 4 cups of chicken stock (or a really good veggie-stock if you are of that persuasion)

fresh parmagiano reggiano (or pecorino romano) grated to taste

salt, pepper and olive oil

Mushrooms:

I always use dried porcini mushrooms (a good sized handful) and soak them in hot water for about 30 minutes (save the soaking liquid and add it to the broth later). To prepare porcinis for risotto, soak, drain (saving the liquid of course) try to squeeze most of the liquid out and coarsely chop.

I usually add about another cup or so of chopped fresh mushrooms. I like criminis, shitake, oyster or really any exotic or stronger mushroom…I wouldn't use white button mushrooms, they are not hearty enough.

Making the Risotto:

Making risotto is the simple process of cooking rice (and other stuff, in this case mushrooms and onions), adding broth little by little until the rice is cooked just so. If you follow this recipe, your risotto will be creamy, flavorful, and always consistent.

First, heat the broth to a simmer (add the mushroom liquid if you use porcinis). As you go through the process you may need more broth, do not fret, if you run out of chicken or veggie stock, you can just use hot water at the end. Note: The cooking liquid needs to be hot before it is added the rice mixture, using cold liquid results in slower cooking time.

Preheat a large skillet or pot (heavy duty please, none of that non-stick wooziness), once hot, coat in olive oil. Saute the onions with salt and pepper until soft.

Add the rice, mushrooms and garlic--at this point, you may need to add more olive oil to the mix, if any of the components stick to the bottom of the pan, add more olive oil to keep the rice from burning. Mix constantly while sauteing over medium-high heat for 3 minutes or so.

Once the rice is "toasted," begin adding the broth. Start with a whole cup. Once that liquid is soaked up/evaporated, add broth at half cup intervals. The rice usually takes a half-an-hour of adding liquid at small intervals and stirring pretty often (make sure to kick up the stirring as the rice gets dry to prevent burning).

As the rice puffs up begin tasting the dish. Everybody likes their risotto done at different points,  In Italy (and consequently the way I like it), the rice is puffy, but when eaten there is still the slightest crunch or resistance in the grain. When you feel like your rice is looking done, taste often until it is perfect to you. Because every pot is different and risotto always takes different amounts of liquid and time, you have to learn to trust your senses. I promise, you will know when it is done—when the rice is perfectly cooked and the rest of the ingredients are married together in a creamy and aromatic mess.

Sometimes, when preparing risotto for a dinner party, I will cook it nearly all of the way an hour before serving so that I only have to heat it up and let another half cup of broth cook off before delighting my guests with a steamy bowl of hot risotto.

And, always remember before serving to throw a nice big handful of parmagiano (or sheep milk equivalent for those intolerant of all things lactose) into the rice. [You can also add a couple of tablespoons of butter, but you really don't need to, the dish is probably rich enough without even the cheese].

Enjoy, and, as always, let me know how it goes.

More Posts Coming

Stovetop Junkie is back from a little un-planned vacation. In the interest of full disclosure, I lost my phone which at the time contained pictures of some delicious food--that, owing only to my own stupidity, were not backed up on my trusty old computer. I promise, more recipes and delicious gastronomic delights are coming.